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Expeditions - Nepal
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Mt. Annapurna Expedition PDF Print E-mail
Written by Levente R. Lokody   
Friday, 12 February 2010 19:12

The 1998 International Annapurna I South Face Expedition has been granted permission by Government of Nepal, to attempt the South Face of 8091-meter high Annapurna I during the autumn of 1998.

Annapurna is significant in that it was the first 8000-meter peak ever climbed. The 1950 first ascent via the North Face was immortalized in Maurice Herzog's book "Annapurna", the sine qua non of mountaineering literature. It took 20 years for another team to succeed on the mountain. The 1970 ascent of the South Face of Annapurna by Chris Bonington's team was a landmark in the history of mountaineering. This is a mountain that is among the most familiar of mountains, yet one that is very rarely climbed.

The South Face of Annapurna is one of the largest and steepest faces in the world. The face is awesome in size and difficulty. The South Face is 3000 feet higher than the southwest face of Mt. Everest. To our knowledge the only larger objective is the Diamir Face of Nanga Parbat, which is much less technical, having been soloed by Messner on its first ascent in 1970. Due to appalling avalanche hazards, fatality rates on Annapurna are nearly three times greater than for expeditions to other 8000-meter peaks, including Mt. Everest and K2. Annapurna claimed the lives of two women during the 1978 American Women's Annapurna Expedition. Anatoli Boukreev, whose participation in the heroic rescues on Mt. Everest in May of 1996, was documented in the popular books The Climb and Into Thin Air, was tragically killed by an avalanche on a satellite peak of Annapurna last Christmas day.

The South Face is relatively free of the terrible avalanche hazards that plague the standard routes on the North Face of the mountain, despite the great difficulty; the South Face is a logical route to the summit. We are an American-Canadian team of non-professional, but skilled climbers who have the goal of climbing this 12,000-foot face by a new route. This new route is a direct finish to the Bonington route, through a 700 meter-high sheer rock face situated at an altitude of more than 7,000-meters. It is unprecedented for Americans to make a climb of this magnitude. In this era of wealthy socialites paying world famous climbers to guide them up well trodden routes on renowned peaks, it is a rare thing to see a group of highly motivated amateurs attempt a new route on one of the highest peaks on the planet.

Itinerary

Day 01 Arrival in Kathmandu. Transfer to hotel.
Day 02/04 Stay in Kathmandu for official procedure. Overnight at Hotel
Day 05 Drive to Beni. Overnight in lodge.
Day 06 Trek-Tatopani. Overnight in lodge.
Day 07 Trek-Ghasa. Overnight in lodge.
Day 08 Trek-Lete. Overnight in lodge.
Day 09 Trek-Thulo Bugin. Overnight in jungle camp.
Day 10 Trek-Thulo Bugin pass. Overnight in river camp.
Day 11 Trek-Mristi Khola. Overnight in river camp.
Day 12 Trek-Advanced base camp..
Day 13/51 Day Climbing period.
Day 52 Cleaning up base camp.
Day 53 Thulo Bugin. Overnight in camp.
Day 54 Trek-Lete. Overnight in lodge.
Day 55 Trek-Tukuche. Overnight in lodge.
Day 56 Trek-Jomsom. Overnight in lodge.
Day 57 Fly Jomsom / Pokhara / Kathmandu. Transfer to hotel.
Day 58/59 Rest days in Kathmandu.
Day 60 Departure from Kathmandu.

Note: - The guide will be briefing day by day program every evening
For any question, cost, modification or advice it will be my pleasure to answer you : Please contact us !!!

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Mount Manaslu Expedition PDF Print E-mail
Written by Administrator   
Friday, 12 February 2010 19:05

Mount Manaslu (8,163m.) was first climbed in 1956 by a Japanese expedition. Its name comes from the Sanskrit word manias, meaning "intellect" or "soul". It is the same root word as that for Manasarover, the holy lake near Mt. Kailash in Tibet. Just as the British considered Everest their mountain, Manaslu has been always regarded as the "Japanese mountain" by the Japanese; because of the Japanese people's first conquered on its top.

HW Tillman and Jimmy Roberts photographed Manaslu during a trek in 1950. But the first real survey of the peak was made by a Japanese expedition in 1952.

A Japanese team made the first serious attempt on the peak from the Buri Gandaki valley in 1953. When another team followed in 1954, the villagers of Samagaon told them the first team had been responsible for an avalanche that destroyed a monastery & refused to let the 1954 expedition climb. The expedition set off to climb Ganesh Himalayan instead.
Despite a large donation for the rebuilding of the monastery, subsequent Japanese expeditions, including the one that made the first ascent in 1956, took place in an atmosphere of animosity and mistrust. The second successful Japanese expedition was in 1971. There was a South Korean attempt in 1971, and in April 1972 an avalanche that killed five climbers and 10 Sherpas ended the second made the fourth ascent of mount Manaslu, as a member of a Tyrolean expedition that climbed from the Marshyangdi valley in 1972. So Manaslu is one of the very renowned lovely mountains in the world to which, many foreigner enthusiast to climb very curiously. This mountain is good choice to those climbers who already made a successful attempt to one of the 8000m peak to the Himalayas.

Note: - Available, Limited Seat, Seat Full

Manaslu Expedition 2010 - 2011
Spring and Autumn 2010- 2011
15th April to 30th May 2010 - 2011 (Booking Open)
3rd Sep to 28th Oct 2010 - 2011 (Booking Open)

Itinerary
Day 01: arrive Kathmandu & transfer to hotel
Day 02: Prepare Expedition
Day 03: Expedition briefing in Ministry of Tourism
Day 04: Drive Arughat via Dhading (570 meters)
Day 05: Arughat – Sotikhola, 6 hours(760m)
Day 06: Sotikhola - Machhakhola 6/7 hours(820m)
Day 07 Machhakhola – Jagat(1360m)
Day 08: Jagat – Ukawa (2240m)
Day 09: Ukawa - Ngyak 5/6 hours(2340m)
Day 10: Nyak - Namrung 5/6 hours(2550m)
Day 11: Namrung - Syalla village(3500m)
Day 12 Syalla - Sama village(3660m)
Day 13: Sama Village (3660m)
Day 14: Sama Village - Manaslu Base camp(4400m)
Day 15- 41: Climbing Period for Manaslu 8163m.
Camp -1 5400m Camp 2 6400 m Camp 3 6900m Camp 4 7500m. Base camp 4800m
Day 42: Base camp - Sama village (3660m)
Day 43: Sama – samdo
Day 44: samdo to Dharma sala
Day 45: Dramasala to bhimThang via Larkay la pass
Day 46: bhimthang to Gowa
Day 47: Gowa to tal
Day 48: Tal to Nagdi
Day 49: nagdi to Besinshar
Day 50: besinshar to Kathmandu
Day 51: Kathmandu
Day 52: Kathamndu
Day 53: Kathamndu
Day 54: final Departure

SERVICES Cost includes:

* All land transportation by vehicle, (Airport /Hotel/Airport, trekking, expedition pick up & drop).
* Hotel Accommodation in Kathmandu with bed & breakfast basis at Hotel.
* 3 Meals; B/L/D and accommodation during the treks at best available Teahouses Lodge till Base Camp and back.
* Experience and professional expert Nepalese expedition crews; 1 Base Camp guide,1 Cook, necessary Kitchen boys, Each person 1 Tent for sleeping at base camp and above BC 1 tent for 2 member, Dining Tent, Tables, Chairs, Mattress, Toilet Tent, Mess Tent, Shower Tent, communication tent, 1 medical tent, Kitchen tent, Store tent, staff and Liaison officer tent and Kitchen utensil while in Base Camp as well as provide hygienic continental 3 hot meals B/L/D.
* Crew’s equipment charge, daily wages, expedition insurance and other facility.
* Permit fee of Mt Manasulu Expedition, trekking permit and National Park fees
* Per Person 40 KG. Equipment’s luggage or barrels allowed for expedition till to Base Camp.
* Expedition equipment’s luggage or barrels is allowed on the way back to Kathamndu from Base Camp. (Expedition equipment’s luggage or barrels carried by Porter or Yak). (Transportation of all food and climbing equipments to base camp and back.)
* Gammo Bag for the life saving device, in case of altitude sickness for Member and nepali team.
* Medical Kit Box for Nepalese crew’s and simple medical service for members till BC.
* Porters or Yak porter kathmandu to Base camp & Base camp to kathamndu
* Equipment allowance, daily allowance for Liaison officer ,climbing guides(3 and 4 clients for 3 Climbing guide Sherpa, 5 clients for 4 climbing guide Sherpa, 6 clients for 5 climbing Sherpa guide, 7 clients for 6 climbing guide sherpa), expedition crew
* Insurance for Nepalese(Climbing Sherpa guide ,cook, Ass. Cook, porters etc.), expedition crew
* Local transportation in Kathmandu (Airport-hotel-airport)
* Oxygen, Mask and regulator Each Nepali climber and Clients
* Walki Takie & satellite phone permit
* Climbing food, Gas & stove above Base camp
* Garbage Deposit
* Group climbing equipment- high tent, high food, rope, snow bar, ice screw, etc.
* Bonus for sherpa guide (Load ferry bonus to High camp)
* Each climbing Sherpa guide they will get 2 bottle Oxygen for Climbing period and Each clients get 3 bottle oxygen with mask and regulator.
* The Sherpas guide are well trained from NMA (Nepal mountaineering Association) and strong. Some are already did the Mt.Manasulu Summit.
* Solar panel/generator with accessories at base camp for power supply and recharging purpose
* All airport transport
* Office service charge

SERVICES Cost does not include:

* PERSONAL equipment for climbing & trekking
* Personal & medical Insurance of expedition
* Lunch & dinner in Kathmandu
* Emergency Rescue evacuation by helicopter incase needed
* Personal expenses
* Bar Bills & beverage
* Tips for all group member
* Insurance of member
* Visa & visa extension fees
* Cost of emergency evacuation
* Main meals in KTM and personal natures expenses
* Summit bonus of Climbing Sherpa

ADDITIONAL SERVICES IF REQUIRED:

* Extra climbing sherpa : US $ 2950/- per sherpa man, Which includes the following Services of Sherpa (Daily wages and equipment allowance of climbing sherpa, Insurance of climbing sherpa as per Government policy, Food and Accommodation during expedition period and Load ferry bonus to the high camps etc)
* POISK 4 liter Branded Oxygen : US $ 450 per tube
* POISK 4 liter Re fill Oxygen : US $ 350 per tube
* Mask set : US $ 600 (purchase) and rental US $250 (Expedition Period)

Booking open for
Manaslu Expedition Spring and autumn 2010
(6th April to 30th May --- 3rd Sep to 28th Oct, 2010 - 2011).

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Mt. Dhaulagiri Expedition PDF Print E-mail
Written by Levente R. Lokody   
Friday, 12 February 2010 19:02

The Dhaulagiri Himal lies south of the Nepal - Tibet border and the culminating high point at its eastern end is Dhaulagiri l. The seventh highest mountain in the world. Dhaulagiri towers in solitary splendor. This magnificent peak rises as a giant shoulder of shining ice and snow. It was first climbed by K. Diemberger, P. Diener, M. Dorji, E. Forrer, A. Schelbert & N. Dorji in 1960.

This mountain was first sighted by the British surveyors in India in the early 1800s but reminded virtually unknown until a Swiss aerial survey in 1949.

This White Mountain was first climbed in 1960 by the Swiss following the Northeast ridge. Five ridges buttress Dhaulagiri l and even up until the early 1980's only the Northeast ridge had been successfully climbed.

Itinerary
Day 01 Arrival in Kathmandu and transfer to hotel.
Day 02 - 04 Official preparation day in Kathmandu.
Day 05 Drive to Baglung/Beni and arrange Porters.
Day 06 Trek to Tatopani. Overnight camp.
Day 07 Trek to Ghasa. Overnight camp.
Day 08 Trek to Tukuche/Marpha. Overnight camp.
Day 09 Stay at Marpha.
Day 10 Trek to Yak Kharka. Overnight in camp.
Day 11 Trek to Yak Kharka and then to French Col.
Day 12 Trek French Col. to BC.
Day 13 - 48 Climbing
Day 49 Trek to Dhampus Col. Overnight in camp.
Day 50 Trek to Tukuche/Marpha. Overnight in lodge.
Day 51 Trek to Jomsom. Overnight in lodge.
Day 52 Fly to Jomsom/Pokhara/Kathmandu. Transfer to hotel.
Day 53 - 55 Rest day in Kathmandu.
Day 56 Departure to your next destination.
For any question, cost, modification or advice it will be my pleasure to answer you :
Please contact us !!!

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Mt. Cho Oyu Expedition PDF Print E-mail
Written by Levente R. Lokody   
Friday, 12 February 2010 18:59

Cho Oyu is the logical choice for the experienced high altitude climber looking to step into the world of 8000m peak climbing. Climbing your first 8000M peak with Ultimate Ascents makes sense. Our hands on, customized approach to 8000M peaks ensures you have a safe and successful climb.

We pack up in Kathmandu, Nepal and head to the Tibetan border. In the border town of Zhangmu we will be met by our Tibetan counterparts who will drive us for the next two days across the vast desert highlands of the Tibetan plateau to our base camp (16,400'). We are able to reach this altitude quickly due to our acclimatization period in Nepal. After establishing base camp we'll be assisted by Yaks as me set up our advanced base camp near the Nangpa La Pass. This historic pass was the means by which the first Tibetan traders crossed the Himalaya to trade in Nepal.

Once ABC (advanced base camp) is set up we'll spend a few days slowly moving making short day trips higher and higher in order to acclimate. When our bodies are ready we'll establish Camp I (19,300ft) at the toe of the west ridge.

Over the next ten days we will establish Camp II (22,400ft) and Camp III (24,900ft). We repeatedly move up and down the mountain to enhance good acclimatization and fitness. Once our last camp is set and we've properly rested at our comfortable base camp we'll begin the push to the top. Over the course of three days we'll move to our highest camp and prepare for our summit attempt.

Itinerary

Day 01: Arrive at Kathmandu we will meet you at airport & transfer you to hotel. Overnight at Hotel
Day 02: City sightseeing tour of Kathmandu valley. Overnight at Hotel
Day 03: Climbing equipments checking. Overnight at Hotel.
Day 04: Leisure day for official formalities and final preparation. Overnight at Hotel.
Day 05: Drive to Zangmu. Overnight at Hotel.
Day 06: Drive to Nyalam. Overnight at Hotel.
Day 07: Rest at Nyalam. Overnight at Hotel.
Day 08: Drive to Thingri. Overnight at Hotel.
Day 09: Rest & Acclimatization Day at Thingri. Overnight at Hotel.
Day 10: Drive to Chinese base camp. Overnight in Tent.
Day 11/12: Rest at Chinese Base Camp. Overnight in Tent.
Day 13: Trek to Advance Base Camp. Overnight in Tent.
Day 14: Rest at Advance Base Camp blessing ceremony (Puja). Overnight in Tent.
Day 15/41: Climbing period on Cho-Oyu accommodation in tent.
Day 42: Advance Base Camp. Overnight in Tent.
Day 43: Chinese Base Camp. Overnight in Tent.
Day 44: Clean up the Base Camp & drive to Thingri. Overnight at Hotel.
Day 45: Drive to Zangmu. Overnight at Hotel.
Day 46: Cross the border & drive to Kathmandu. Overnight at Hotel.
Day 47: Free afternoon and culture celebration dinner with all local staffs in Kathmandu. Overnight at Hotel.
Day 48: Departure home from Kathmandu on your flight schedule.

Note: - The guide will be briefing day by day program every evening
For any question, cost, modification or advice it will be my pleasure to answer you : Please contact us !!!

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Makalu Expedition PDF Print E-mail
Written by Levente R. Lokody   
Friday, 12 February 2010 18:41

Makalu - 8,463m, Central Himalaya, China/Nepal
First ascent:1955; J. Couzy, L. Terray.

Makalu is the fifth highest mountain in the world and is located just 14 miles east of Mount Everest. Though the peak appears isolated, its size alone is impressive. Its structure as a perfect pyramid with four sharp ridges, makes this mountain all the more spectacular.

Mt. Makalu (8463m.) was first climbed by a French party in 1955, is the world's 5th highest mountain at 8,463m. Situated between Everest and Kanchanjunga, on the Nepali-Tibetan border.

Makalu was first mapped and photographed from the Tibet side by a British Everest expedition in 1921. Although the peak had been studied by several Everest parties, the first successful climb was not until the conquer of Everest like the so many other giants in the Everest region. Makalu is considered a technical mountain for climbing which can be justified, as only five of its first sixteen attempts were successful. Makalu West Face offers challenging climbing on this route with hanging ice fall, ice - rock wall with 50 to 60 degrees steep and 70 to 75 degrees elevation’s rock pillar near the summit.

Makalu Expedition 2010 - 2011
Spring and Autumn 2010- 2011
5th April to 20th May (Booking Open)
15th sep to 30th Oct (Booking Open)

Itinerary
Day 1: Arrival in Kathmandu & Transfer to Hotel. (D)
Days 2-3: Kathmandu. (Preparation) (B, L, D)
Day 4: Fly to Tumlingtar. Trek to Khadbari (1040m). Stay in lodge/camp. (B, L, D)
Day 5: Bhotebas (1730m). Overnight Stay in lodge / camp. (B, L, D)
Day 6: Chichiara. Overnight Stay in lodge / camp (B, L, D)
Day 7: Num. Overnight Stay in lodge / camp (B, L, D)
Day 8: Kuwapani (1560m). Overnight Stay in lodge / camp. (B, L, D)
Days 9-10: Tashi Goan (2100m). Acclimatization (B, L, D)
Day 11: Kauma (3760m). Overnight Stay in camp (B, L, D)
Day 12: Dobato (3700m). Overnight Stay in camp (B, L, D)
Day 13: Nebe Kharka (4320m). Overnight in camp (B, L, D)
Day 14: Sherson (4630m). Overnight Stay in camp (B, L, D)
Day 15: Makalu base camp (B, L, D)
Day 16: High camp (B, L, D)
Days 17-49: Climbing Period Mt. Makalu (B, L, D)
Day 50: Cleaning up Base Camp (B, L, D)
Day 51: Yak Kharka (B, L, D)
Day 52: Mumbuk. Overnight Stay in lodge (B, L, D)
Day 53: Tashi Goan. Overnight Stay in lodge (B, L, D)
Day 54: Nun. Overnight Stay in lodge (B, L, D)
Day 55: Chichira. Overnight Stay in lodge (B, L, D)
Day 56: Khandbari. Overnight Stay in lodge (B, L, D)
Day 57: Tumlingtar and fly back to Kathmandu (B, L, D)
Day 58: Kathmandu. Sight seeing (B, L, D)
Day 59: Kathmandu
Day 60: Final departure to your Country (B)

SERVICES Cost includes:

* All land transportation by vehicle, (Airport /Hotel/Airport, trekking, expedition pick up & drop).
* Hotel Accommodation in Kathmandu with bed & breakfast basis at Hotel.
* 3 Meals; B/L/D and accommodation during the treks at best available Teahouses Lodge till Base Camp and back.
* Experience and professional expert Nepalese expedition crews; 1 Base Camp guide,1 Cook, necessary Kitchen boys, Each person 1 Tent for sleeping, Dining Tent, Tables, Chairs, Mattress, Toilet Tent, Mess Tent, Shower Tent, communication tent, 1 medical tent, Kitchen tent, Store tent, staff and Liaison officer tent and Kitchen utensil while in Base Camp as well as provide hygienic continental 3 hot meals B/L/D.
* Crew’s equipment charge, daily wages, expedition insurance and other facility.
* Kathmandu- Tumlingtar - Kathmandu domestic air
* Permit fee of Mt Makalu Expedition, trekking permit and National Park fees
* Per Person 40 KG. Equipment’s luggage or barrels allowed for expedition till to Base Camp.
* Expedition equipment’s luggage or barrels is allowed on the way back to Kathamndu from Base Camp. (Expedition equipment’s luggage or barrels carried by Porter or Yak). (Transportation of all food and climbing equipments to base camp and back.)
* Gammo Bag for the life saving device, in case of altitude sickness for Member and nepali team.
* Medical Kit Box for Nepalese crew’s and simple medical service for members till BC.
* Porters or Yak porter kathmandu to Base camp & Base camp to kathamndu
* Equipment allowance, daily allowance for Liaison officer ,climbing guide ,nepali expedition team, expedition crew
* Climbing guides(4-client for 3 Climbing guide Sherpa , 5- clients for 4 climbing Sherpa , 6-client for 5 climbing guide Sherpa ,7 client for 6 climbing sherpa),
* Insurance for Nepalese, expedition crew
* Local transportation in Kathmandu (Airport-hotel-airport)
* POISK 4 liter Re fill Oxygen, Mask and regulator Each Nepali climber and Clients
* Walki Takie & satellite phone
* Climbing food, Gas & stove above Base camp
* Garbage Deposit
* Group climbing equipment- high tent, high food, rope, snow bar, ice screw, etc.
* Bonus for sherpa guide (Load ferry bonus )
* Each climbing sherpa guide they will get 3 bottle Oxygen for Climbing period and Each clients get 4 bottle oxygen with mask and regulator.
* The Sherpas guide are well trained from NMA (Nepal mountaineering Association) and strong.
* Solar panel/generator with accessories at base camp for power supply and recharging purpose
* All airport transport

SERVICES Cost does not include:

* PERSONAL equipment for climbing & trekking
* Personal & medical Insurance of expedition
* Lunch & dinner in Kathmandu
* Emergency Rescue evacuation by helicopter incase needed
* Personal expenses
* Bar Bills & beverage
* Tips for all group member
* Insurance of member
* Visa & visa extension fees
* Cost of emergency evacuation
* Main meals in KTM and personal natures expenses
* Summit bonus of Climbing Sherpa

ADDITIONAL SERVICES IF REQUIRED:

* Extra climbing sherpa : US $ 3200/- per sherpa man, Which includes the following Services of Sherpa (Daily wages and equipment allowance of climbing sherpa, Insurance of climbing sherpa as per Government policy, Food and Accommodation during expedition period and Load ferry bonus to the high camps etc)
* POISK 4 liter Branded Oxygen : US $ 400 per tube
* POISK 4 liter Re fill Oxygen : US $ 275 per tube
* Mask set : US $ 600 (purchase) and rental US $150 (Expedition Period)

For any question, cost, modification or advice it will be my pleasure to answer you : Please contact us !!!

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Last Updated on Friday, 12 February 2010 18:59
 
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